Pilgrim, tourist or Camino Traveller

It started as a mere thought as we crossed the Meseta and continued to manifest itself into topics of conversations as we ventured from Albergue to Albergue.  The origin stemmed from a rest stop; one of many, taken as we traversed ‘the way.’  As we dodged the toilet paper that grows wild like rape seed and dislodged our pack, we noticed the scrawled writing on the back of a sign.   Small in stature but packing a thought provoking wallop; the words simply stated:  ‘Pilgrim 10%, tourist 90% - which are you?’

Which indeed!  We had used the word pilgrim, pilgrimage and peregrino at every opportunity like a cheap rapper dropping beats to the nosebleed section, but were we simply a tourist feeding on the St James economy?   If we were a tourist, did this somehow render what we were doing null and void; were we indeed cheapening the experience by somehow embarking on a Contiki Camino?  True, we were not undertaking the journey for a religious experience or in the hope of a life changing epiphany but rather a challenging opportunity to journey together and reflect in a simplistic manner.  Surely that equated to a pilgrimage. Deep down that scrawl reverberated. We didn’t feel like a tourist, who demanded instant gratification, nor were we carrying a bible. The way of it is; we were just two individuals, stripping back our busy life and enjoying the monotony of seeking out the yellow arrow & ceramic shell.   

Certainly, we did see a few religious zealots, who chewed our ears off with their own slant of biblical verses and traditions; which strangely matched their own agenda, (the likes of 'God Hates Divorce' tshirt or the carrying of one’s own substantial crucifix.)  In reality, along ‘The Way’ there are no tourists but rather Camino Travellers.  We first heard this term when we were espousing our dilemma at the Municipal Albergue in Sahagun. This particular group of liked minded travellers had all completed the Camino on multiple occasions and as the vino tinto flowed, the discussion raged. Our fellow walkers clearly articulated that there is no right or wrong way to partake of the Camino. In essence, the Camino is your way and no book, individual or piece of graffiti can define it  – you must experience it yourself and take away from it what you will.  We are all travellers and the Camino is our canvas; where we share stories, form friendships and build a community that supports, nurtures and grows.

  We are proud to be Camino travellers of 'The Way'.  Who needs to be a pilgrim when you can be a traveller?

The Camino miracle!

 The pilgrim is like a snail, not only does it take a long time to travel the distance but it carries a world on its back. The average backpack contents consists of 1 to 2 changes of clothes and underwear. Life is simple on the way; walk, eat, drink, wash your smalls, sleep & repeat!

On the day in question, our socks had not dried completely overnight, so as can often be seen along the way; our socks swung lazily in the sun, pegged on the back of our packs as we trekked.

 At the first rest stop, we discovered that one of Lea's sock had gone awol! (N.B. the humble sock is fundamental to any successful Camino journey). Subsequently trudging along, with Lea feeling despondent about her absent sock, we arrived at our Albergue for the night. After setting up our sleeping bag and ready to explore the town, our room mate appears. ' did you lose your sock'?. This peregrino angel had carried the errant sock and peg 15 kms to safely return it.


The Camino has an unique sense of community that brings back faith in mankind!

A yellow arrow, a shell and blind faith!

It is hard to imagine that we put our blind faith in two inanimate objects as we traversed 800km across two countries.  A simple, yellow arrow stenciled on walls, paths, rocks and poles or the ceramic shell embossed on a pillar acted as our only guide.   We obediently followed - never questioning or doubting the calling.  Some hearty pilgrims clutched their own bible - John Brierly, 'Guide to the Camino', quoting verbatim from this holy text; they looked at us as pagans as we shrugged our shoulders, pointed to the yellow arrow or shell and continued on our journey.

As days blurred into one, we trekked undulating hills that took us through rustic villages, our eyes were in a constant state of REM, scouring the landscape for a glimpse of our deity.   We became zealots, preaching the wonders of the arrow & shell.

At times, our shadows were our only companion as we traversed the lonely, stoney tracks in search of salvation. Those signs ensured a sense of wellbeing; knowledge in the fact that we would find safe haven that night.

 The arrow and shell are mediative symbols that put concerns into perspective and provide a sense of liberation.

                                Sometimes, you just have to let go and follow!

                                                        Buen Camino🐚

In the world kitchen! Espana camino style!

The Spanish population certainly enjoy their bread. Every meal is served with 'pan' of some description. (A staple dietary camino requirement).  Herbs are used to flavour meals but not to spice things up, making food rather bland. Paella, tapas and seafood are a regular on most menus along with the infamous peregrino deal. This bargain ranging from 8 to 14 euros can be hit or miss. Usually consists of an entree choice of ensalada with or without atun, sopa or pasta. Main can be a variety of carne, pollo or fish all served with patata in some form. Our experience dictates that fish is the safest option. Dessert is flan, yoghurt or if you are lucky homemade cake. An abundance of pan and vino tinto is always included in deal. Tip is to look for the small homemade food cafes as the Senoritas take great pride in their cooking. We scored a couple of delicious meals that way.
The Español diet on a whole is carb loaded, which is handy for fuel when you are a peregrino but has a bloating effect. We found ourselves craving fresh veggies but the fruit was devine.

Our staple mid morning breakfast was a cuppa and a slice of patata tortilla served with pan of course.


Tortilla De Patatas

Ingredients
6-8 pototoes, peeling and cut into 1/4 inch slices
2 tsp salt
2 cups olive oil
1 med onion, chopped
10 eggs, beaten

Method.
Place pototoes in colander, sprinkle with salt and stand for half hour. Pat dry with paper towel.
Heat oil in non stick skillet ( med/high ) then add potatoes and cook. Turn occasionally  until crisp and tender.
Add onion  and cook until both are soft. About 5 mins. Use a slotted spoon to transfer into bowl to cool. Strain oil into bowl and set aside.
Add egg to potato mix. Wipe out skillet and heal 1/4 cup from reserved oil.
Add egg mix, arranging potato to submerge. Reduce heat to medium. Cook until almost set , should be slightly runny on top. 20 to 30 minutes.
Invert onto large plate. Then side back into skillet browned side up. Cook until golden brown on bottom and cooked through.

Can be served hot or cold.


                                            tortilla de patata

Burgos black pudding

Garlic prawns

G & T

Famous tarta de santiago cake!

Baked Eggs

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The Albergue Campanion Guide

Having spent 32 out of 35 days sleeping in albergues across the camino, it is true to say that albergue life is a microcosm of society contained in a matchbox size environment.  It is easy therefore to imagine the cultural differences, the linguistic acrobatics and the plain just shake of the head moments that occur. We have noticed on our 5 week journey through the albergue community that there are some unique companions that have passed by our bunks and shared our albergue dorm life.

Here is our Campanion guide!



The Roller.

This hearty soul dreams that they are in a tumble-dryer. Sharing a bunk with them can make you feel like you are on a virtual reality roller coaster, as their constant moving makes the bed shutter.

If confronted by the roller, a trick to entice sleep is to count the number of seconds between rolls instead of sheep, or locate their backpack, wait until they have wedged themselves against the wall or bunk bars and place the backpack on the other side thus securing them in position.

Cyclops. 

This one-eyed beast erupts around 4.30am when their death-metal alarm goes off and they snap on their heap lamp.  Forget about quarter/half beam, a full throttle flare pierces through your industrial strength eye patch to trick your retinas into believing it is midday.   The cyclops will hover around the bunks, scouring for a dropped peg or scanning crevices for anything of interest.  

Keep your ears open as your albergue buddies talk about starting times and once you have located a cyclops, wait until they journey for one last loo stop before retiring then carefully remove one battery from their head lamp (lamps are normally found under the pillow).  You will still be woken by the death metal alarm but your eyes will thank you all the next day.

The Flaunt. 

This liberal soul enjoys the crisp morning or late evening air on their body, especially naked and standing in front of your bunk.  It is certainly an experience waking up to a saggy elephant trunk at eye level or a chocolate starfish winking at you.  More disturbing is the re-adjusting bra, especially when one breast is thrown over the shoulder and then tucked into the DDD cup.  

The flaunt is normally of European descent and suffering from alopecia and between the ages of 40-80.

The best way to deal with the flaunt is to cover your head with your pillow case when you first wake up. It may help to have a mirror in your hand, and ask them to talk to the hand so they can see their reflection in all its glory talking back to them.

FTS (Fail to shower).

This fuggy albergue creature comes with its own health warning that makes cigarette packaging look tame.  A haze follows their every move, which, in turn triggers your gag reflex when they enter your vicinity.  Your skin and clothes become impregnated with their stench.  They are the major cause of bed bug infestations as the poor mites try to escape to a clean mattress like rats from a sinking ship.

Not really much can be done about these unfortunates. If you see them headed toward a certain albergue, best walk on to the next one. If you do get stuck with them in your dorm, always be alert to their whereabouts and be ready to hold your breath. Infact, pre breath holding and breathing through mouth training is an essential camino survival tactic.


The Orchestra 

The baritones, tenors and sopranos of the albergue community.  These beefy souls erupt during the wee hours of the morning or as the first morning light breaks through.  The baritone sends tremors down from above where rippling vibrations can be felt washing across the surface of mattresses. The soprano with clenched cheeks, have trained their sphincter to emit subtle sounds in time with someone rolling over in their bunk or packing their pack.  The tenor combines the depth of sound of the baritones with effect of the FTS.   Their gag worthy performances are capable of bringing the albergue audience to tears and coughing fits.

The only true way to deal with the Orchestra is survival breathing techinque   and use ear plugs or become part of the orchestra yourself.

Russell

Russell is a climate change denier, whose backpack is full of plastic bags.  This environmental terrorist will unleash their pollutant on the albergue community at all hours.  The noise emitted from the plastic bags bring forth a vision of a whale being harpooned or a sea turtle slowly suffocating on a belly of fake plastic jellyfish.  Such sounds are the bane of the albergue community, especially as most camino travellers understand the impact climate change is having on wine production in spain and the quality of pilgrim meals on offer.

Russell can be tamed by taking a pair of scissors to the plastic bag in question or tagging them in pictures of dying sea turtles on the camino facebook site.

The St James Camino workout!

The St James Camino workout is a must for those people wishing to lose between 8-15 kgs in 6 weeks.  Forget about the Michelle Bridges 12 week challenge; 'the Camino' is a low impact exercise plan combined with a diet regime that includes unlimited vino tinto, three course meals and bread a plenty.  All you require is a sturdy pair of boots, a resistance pack (10%) of your body weight plus an interest in walking, outdoors and meeting  people. The program does include hill climbs and a built in foot massage as your feet are therapeutically caressed by the numerous rocks along the path.   Great for a fitbit addiction, as you are guaranteed over 50,000 steps per day (up to 20-25 clicks per day for 6 weeks).

This work out is certified by podiatrists, massuers and physiotherapists world-wide.

The package includes accommodation and meals for $50 au per day.
(Airfares not included)


 Come on, you  know you want to!  The St James Camino is the way!

                  

THE miracle of the chicken

Santo Domingo de la Calzada is indeed an interesting place and has at its core, connections to the pilgrimage of St James. The Cathedral is ominpresent and tells of the miracle of  the hen and rooster.  The story is a little ripper and goes something like this.

A family of German pilgrims were on their way to Santiago when they decided, as fate would dictate, to stop at an inn in Santo Damingo de la Calzada. The owner's daughter was a frisky minx and took a likening to the German lad & his bratwurst sausage. She propositioned him with a visit the scullery. He was on a holy pilgrim and so he declined.

 The inn owner's daughter performed one of the greatest acts of jilted revenge when she slipped a silver goblet into the young lad's possessions.  After a couple of hours she informed the local law enforcement agencies about the missing goblet and gave a description of the German lad. The lad is distraught when he is brought before the Mayor, who proclaims him a crook and sentences him to be hung that afternoon.  Protests of innocence are ignored as he is escorted to the noose and left to swing in the mid afternoon breeze.

His grieving parents leave the town that evening as they are forbidden to cut down and bury their son.  They continue on with their pilgrimage to Santiago and some months later decide to return to the town and pay their respect to their dearly, departed son.

To their utter amazement their son is still swinging from his noose and can be heard moaning. On closer inspection their son informs them that Santo Domingo had brought him back to life, and that they must go and tell the Mayor so that he can be cut down and return home with his parents.

As one can imagine, the parents bolt to the Mayor's residence and demand an audience.  The Mayor who is about to sit down to a feast of roast chicken is not amused by the weird German folk and their outrageous claim.  He rebukes the parents, informs them that they are lucky that they are not swinging next to their criminal son.  He mocks them with his sarcasm and stated that their son was alive as the roast chickens he was about to consume.  With these words the chickens exploded from the Mayor's plate, grow beaks and feathers and began to crow.

Stunned, the Mayor orders the son to be cut down. The family unite and  continue home from their pilgrimage.  The inn owner's daughter is crushed by an ox and the Mayor becomes the first registered vegan in Europe.

Today in Santiago Domingo, there is a saying about the town : 'Santiago Domingo of the way, where the rooster crow after being roasted.'  In memory of this event a snow white cockrel and hen have been kept in an ornate Gothic hen house inside the cathedral ever since.