Romancing the Camino!

Like every adventure, the good times dominate memories whilst the harsher reality fades in insignificance. We set off on Camino round two with a longing for an uncomplicated life. A life stripped bare; one of walking through hamlets, exploring the countryside and enjoying a vino tinto or two. Ahh, how simple.

The mind is a clever thing. Protecting sanity and giving society the ability to repeat hardships. If memories of giving birth were razor-sharp, mankind would be extinct for sure!

The reality of the Camino memory did not take long to kick in. The exhaustion of jetlag combined with daily 20 km + hikes, very quickly became apparent. The body ached, feet were sore (Lea got 2 blisters) and fatigue was very much at the forefront as our bodies adjusted to a new way of life.

We were quick to forget that sharing a dorm with 10 or more pilgrims was no pajama party! The snoring, farting and rustling of our albergue mates gnored into our slumber. Thanks to St James for fatigation and our  ear plugs  for ensuring a decent enough sleep. Even though an average pilgrim carries the bare necessities, repacking your pack each morning was a chore. Especially if you decide to depart earlier than your dorm mates. Trying to be quiet as a mouse as you haphazardly grab your gear and head to a common area to pack your bag properly.

Pilgrims usually start their day early, and most times this means walking by torch light and enjoying the dawn, 5 or so kms into the day.  The Spanish population arise late, enjoy a siesta and then stay up until the wee hours. This can cause conflict in the routine of the average pilgrim. Looking to replenish energy levels was sometimes stressful as we passed through sleepy villages mid morning in hopes that a bar or cafe would be open for business and serve us morning tea! By mid afternoon, when your days journey is done, the locals have closed shop and are enjoying their nanny naps. In the smaller hamlets, you can be hard pushed to find a snack let alone, well earned bevvie! Most days, you are well and truly ready to Snuggle in your sleeping bag by 7.30/8 pm. But, alas that is when all the fun began. Many places didn't open their kitchen until 8. So, quite a few evenings found us picnicking on carb loaded boccodillas and a bottle of vino from the supermarket, followed by an early retirement!

Our recollection from our first Camino was walking through the country side and enjoying the fragrant, fresh air. Reality bit as we sometimes found ourselves roadside with fog and car fumes assaulting our senses.

Abulations could also be a concern along the way. Every morn before embarking on the trail, Lea would fill her pockets with loo paper, just encase of  an emergency off trail pit stop. Needless to say, came in useful!

Forgotten too were the aches, pains, weight loss ( ok, that is a good thing) and injury. Makes a pilgrim wonder why the hell are they doing it. The camino is certainly not a bed of roses, it is a challenging trek of hardship that  takes you out of your comfort zone and dumps you into a world of survival of the fittest.

All that being said, would we recommend walking the Camino?
The answer is unquestionably,
Si 👣

The Awakening!

The whispers ebb away at the subconscious, a glimpse of torch light dance across closed eyelids and the rustle of bags being repacked becomes the chorus of the Camino awakening. A night in an albergue, Deja Vu!

It is from Ponferrada that our feet first hit the Camino trail and romantic memories from our last sojourn filter back.  Excitedly, we diligently watch out for arrows and shells, as we try to shake the jet-lag.  We pass through Compostilla Iglesia Santa Maria, where street art frames the portico; onto the sleepy hamlet of Fuentus Nuevas, until we reach Cacabelos, where we sleep the night in the grounds of the Capilla de Las Augustia XVII.  A  celebration is had, as we sit by the river, making toasts with vino tinto to the freedom of the Camino!

Darkness and rain greet us as we set out from Cacabelos to God knows where.  The first 2kms sees us illuminated by our headtorches as we follow the way out of town.  A crackling hum of power lines guided us through vineyards, as early morning farmers, waved purple stained hands in greeting.  Our way took us through Villafranco del Biezo, where churches dominate the skyline and an 8.50 Euro stick of deodorant awaits to be purchased. Some may see the correlation here! Unfortunately, we missed the scenic alternative route and instead, were thrown  onto a main arterial road that heaves fumes and spits up asphalt. On to the hamlet of Trabadelo, where serendipity takes control and we stop at Casa Susi.  We learn of a love story between our hosts, Susi and Fermon and how the Camino is intertwined with fate. We share a communal meal, stories and experiences over a couple of bottles  local of vinos.  Laughter fills the Casa and we go to bed knowing that the Camino has once  again provided a day of memories.

We awake  next morn with the knowledge that our day ahead will involve conquering the highest peak on the way of St James - O'Cebreiro.  To reach this beast of a peak, we pass through hamlets of Abasement, Ruitelan, La Faba and Launa de Cada, which blur into one and seem to have the same picturesque postcard setting of ramshakle houses, balconies in bloom, undulating hills, combined with a distinct aroma of cow dung.
 

The trek up to the peak was a brut- a gut busting event.  Our poles propped and propelled us forward, little by little as  the lactic acid made our legs buckle, and the sweat cascaded from every pore.  They do say 'no pain, no gain' and this is true of the El Camino.  Arriving at the summit of O'Cebrerio and looking out across the plateau, we have a clear understanding of  the meaning of such a saying.

Onward to Tricastela, and our thoughts move to Sarria and Santiago  de Compostella.  Our plan had been to walk to Sarria then catch a train to Santiago, but as we completed the first section quicker than expected, we decide to walk on. A decision of some regret.  A few days short of Santiago, the crowds flooded the path, designer gear sparkled and pilgrim tourists  walked with beers rather than hiking poles.  Cafes and bars were six deep as people fought over a stamp for their credential and tour buses wait at designated areas to pick up passengers to drop off at the next scenic stretch.  The beauty of the landscape was dissolved by the masses and in hindsight, we should have by-passed this section and started on our way to Fisterra earlier.

The Camino has always been about the 3C's - Challenge, Community and Conversation.  It is at the many Albergues that conversations flow over vino tinto and questions always filter back to why, the  Camino.  Stories are retold to new companions who will be replaced at the next Albergue and so the cycle continues.

Postscript:  Made it to Santiago and waited 5 hours at the Pilgrim Office to get our Compostela. (of which, we now have 2)

Tips and hints on 'The Way'!

 If you decide to undertake the Peregrino journey; you will hear a lot of advice.

The most important thing is to embrace is the fact that it is not a race but a journey. Your journey! It does not matter if you walk 10, 20 or 30 kms a day, you will get there in the end. We spoke to a lot of people along the way and some of most inspirational pilgrims we met, were serial repeaters. They usually get up around 7am and have a leisurely breakfast before heading out. Then walk for no more than 20kms, stopping off at the little bars and cafes along the way. In other words, 'Stop and smell the roses'!

The gear you choose to accompany you on this amazing experience will make or break you.

Our all important tip is to take as little as possible in your pack. The recommended guide line is 10% of your body weight. Believe us, when we tell you that does not account for much at all. Majority of pilgrims set off with more than that baggage allowance, only to dis-guard or send forth many unnecessary items. It is really a back to basics kinda gig.  Hairdryers and makeup become a thing of the past when you are lucky to glance in a mirror once a week. You are not going to be hiking in the wilderness. There are shops, doctors and pharmacies in every town, so do yourself a favour and pack light.

Hiking boots & socks- These must be great quality as they are responsible for carrying you and your pack all the way to Santiago! Make sure your boots are the correct size (allow room for swelling), try boots on at the end of the day and make sure you wear the socks that you intend to hike in.
Allow enough time to wear them in whilst training.  There is a lot of controversy about socks and foot care. We swear by the double sock method. One inner liner sock and an outer hiking sock. Purchase proper hiking socks from an outdoor store.

Back pack- As all your worldly possession are going to be confined to this compact, light weight pack, it is essential for your pack to fit you properly. Even distribution of weight on the body will save your neck, back, shoulder and knee pain.

Sleeping bag and pillow case- We purchased  nordisk, 'Oscar' -2 bags, weighing in at 700gm. They packed down relatively small and sat in the bottom of our packs. We took our own pillow cases too. If you are warm and cosy at night you can perform better up those hills the next day.

Hiking poles- We used 2 poles which really were a blessing. Not only did they help propel us up those hills, they provided a comforting sense of rhythm along the way!


Training, Camino fitness!
Again, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to training for The Way. Nothing can really prepare you for day after day of walking on the rocky, uneven surfaces. Our theory is however; if you start out reasonably fit; you will enjoy the journey so much more. We started serious training 3 month prior to our adventure. Week nights would be a walk of  at least 1 hour and weekends would be around 6 hours of hills, both days. Remember to train with your backpack- start off lighter and build up to 10% of your body weight. You will gain stamina during your journey and it will become routine to walk every day.

One of the gifts that the Camino offers is freedom, this freedom is liberating!

BUEN CAMINO!