This work out is certified by podiatrists, massuers and physiotherapists world-wide.
The package includes accommodation and meals for $50 au per day.
(Airfares not included)
Come on, you know you want to! The St James Camino is the way!
Friday, 28 April 2017
The St James Camino workout!
This work out is certified by podiatrists, massuers and physiotherapists world-wide.
The package includes accommodation and meals for $50 au per day.
(Airfares not included)
Come on, you know you want to! The St James Camino is the way!
Monday, 24 April 2017
THE miracle of the chicken
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is indeed an interesting place and has at its core, connections to the pilgrimage of St James. The Cathedral is ominpresent and tells of the miracle of the hen and rooster. The story is a little ripper and goes something like this.
A family of German pilgrims were on their way to Santiago when they decided, as fate would dictate, to stop at an inn in Santo Damingo de la Calzada. The owner's daughter was a frisky minx and took a likening to the German lad & his bratwurst sausage. She propositioned him with a visit the scullery. He was on a holy pilgrim and so he declined.
The inn owner's daughter performed one of the greatest acts of jilted revenge when she slipped a silver goblet into the young lad's possessions. After a couple of hours she informed the local law enforcement agencies about the missing goblet and gave a description of the German lad. The lad is distraught when he is brought before the Mayor, who proclaims him a crook and sentences him to be hung that afternoon. Protests of innocence are ignored as he is escorted to the noose and left to swing in the mid afternoon breeze.
His grieving parents leave the town that evening as they are forbidden to cut down and bury their son. They continue on with their pilgrimage to Santiago and some months later decide to return to the town and pay their respect to their dearly, departed son.
To their utter amazement their son is still swinging from his noose and can be heard moaning. On closer inspection their son informs them that Santo Domingo had brought him back to life, and that they must go and tell the Mayor so that he can be cut down and return home with his parents.
As one can imagine, the parents bolt to the Mayor's residence and demand an audience. The Mayor who is about to sit down to a feast of roast chicken is not amused by the weird German folk and their outrageous claim. He rebukes the parents, informs them that they are lucky that they are not swinging next to their criminal son. He mocks them with his sarcasm and stated that their son was alive as the roast chickens he was about to consume. With these words the chickens exploded from the Mayor's plate, grow beaks and feathers and began to crow.
Stunned, the Mayor orders the son to be cut down. The family unite and continue home from their pilgrimage. The inn owner's daughter is crushed by an ox and the Mayor becomes the first registered vegan in Europe.
Today in Santiago Domingo, there is a saying about the town : 'Santiago Domingo of the way, where the rooster crow after being roasted.' In memory of this event a snow white cockrel and hen have been kept in an ornate Gothic hen house inside the cathedral ever since.
A family of German pilgrims were on their way to Santiago when they decided, as fate would dictate, to stop at an inn in Santo Damingo de la Calzada. The owner's daughter was a frisky minx and took a likening to the German lad & his bratwurst sausage. She propositioned him with a visit the scullery. He was on a holy pilgrim and so he declined.
The inn owner's daughter performed one of the greatest acts of jilted revenge when she slipped a silver goblet into the young lad's possessions. After a couple of hours she informed the local law enforcement agencies about the missing goblet and gave a description of the German lad. The lad is distraught when he is brought before the Mayor, who proclaims him a crook and sentences him to be hung that afternoon. Protests of innocence are ignored as he is escorted to the noose and left to swing in the mid afternoon breeze.
His grieving parents leave the town that evening as they are forbidden to cut down and bury their son. They continue on with their pilgrimage to Santiago and some months later decide to return to the town and pay their respect to their dearly, departed son.
To their utter amazement their son is still swinging from his noose and can be heard moaning. On closer inspection their son informs them that Santo Domingo had brought him back to life, and that they must go and tell the Mayor so that he can be cut down and return home with his parents.
As one can imagine, the parents bolt to the Mayor's residence and demand an audience. The Mayor who is about to sit down to a feast of roast chicken is not amused by the weird German folk and their outrageous claim. He rebukes the parents, informs them that they are lucky that they are not swinging next to their criminal son. He mocks them with his sarcasm and stated that their son was alive as the roast chickens he was about to consume. With these words the chickens exploded from the Mayor's plate, grow beaks and feathers and began to crow.
Stunned, the Mayor orders the son to be cut down. The family unite and continue home from their pilgrimage. The inn owner's daughter is crushed by an ox and the Mayor becomes the first registered vegan in Europe.
Today in Santiago Domingo, there is a saying about the town : 'Santiago Domingo of the way, where the rooster crow after being roasted.' In memory of this event a snow white cockrel and hen have been kept in an ornate Gothic hen house inside the cathedral ever since.
Saturday, 22 April 2017
Classification of Peregrinos!
Everyone likes a good classification, whether it's the Australian iconic bogan, the East Ender gezza, the townie or westie. The same can be said for the camino.
The official Greenie classifications of peregrino guide.
A) The Cycle Pilgrim. They can be identified by their 'WHAM', glow in the dark lycra, which emphasises every bulge or lack of. They have a superiority complex; very few 'buen caminos' are thrown your way, rather a passionate screech of 'derecho' or 'izquierda' is bellowed in your direction or the more aggressive 'fuetade la fucking manera.' The latter normally in a single lane path with a 20 metre drop on each side and a belief that somehow you will get out the way and survive.
B) Day Pilgrims. Those pilgrims on day excursions who only walk the most scenic or iconic parts the way. They are identified by their designer trainers and sportwear, slim camel pack and absence of backbreaking backpack. They talk on their phones or believe that everyone needs to listen to their inspirational music. They waltz pass on a 15 degree climb, chirping with their fellow day trippers as we grunt and moan. They smile as they pass us as their Gucci sweat is absorbed by their state of the art trekking gear.
C) The Part Time Pilgrim. These hearty souls are predominately European in nature who because of their proximity to 'the way' decide to spend a week here and there over the course of the years completing their pilgrimage. They are up for a craic and are the classic definition of the 5 minute mate. You will catch up with them on a number of occasions and then suddenly, poof, they are gone. However; you continue to share stories with fellow pilgrims about them. Their goal is to finish the camino in 5 years? yours' 35 days.
D) The Pilgrim. A tight knit community identified by the camino shuffle and exploding blisters. We share stories of our thoughts as we walk and of other pilgrims we have meet. Each of us have our own reason for our journey, some share, other keep it private. They have a fuggy aroma to them and are always seen trekking in the same clothes since day one. This is our crew.
E) Hard-core Pilgrim. Even the normal pilgrim stop mid-stride when they come across these rare beasts. For instance, ' the God Hates Divorce' pilgrim blazed across his attire - its certainly not the inclusive God we know. The ' Mountain Girl' who is running the camino, when asked why, she replies, 'because l can.' 'Mary and Joseph' re-enactment, with donkey and two big dogs instead of sheep and finally, 'Dog Pilgrim', pilgrims who believe taking their dog on a 800 plus trek will provide them with enlightenment.
F) Speed-freak Pilgrim. Blink and they are gone. These pilgrims can be heard in loud voice, quoting how many kilometres they have done and will bend your ear with stats & maps that show their quest to complete the camino in 22 days at and average of 40kms a day. When asked what they have experienced or did they stop and look at this; they look at you are if you are retarded and point to their fit bit and their maps. You remind them that it's 'smiles rather than miles', they scoff and quickly move away searching for a similar speed-freak on the verge of stress fractures or delirium.
The official Greenie classifications of peregrino guide.
A) The Cycle Pilgrim. They can be identified by their 'WHAM', glow in the dark lycra, which emphasises every bulge or lack of. They have a superiority complex; very few 'buen caminos' are thrown your way, rather a passionate screech of 'derecho' or 'izquierda' is bellowed in your direction or the more aggressive 'fuetade la fucking manera.' The latter normally in a single lane path with a 20 metre drop on each side and a belief that somehow you will get out the way and survive.
B) Day Pilgrims. Those pilgrims on day excursions who only walk the most scenic or iconic parts the way. They are identified by their designer trainers and sportwear, slim camel pack and absence of backbreaking backpack. They talk on their phones or believe that everyone needs to listen to their inspirational music. They waltz pass on a 15 degree climb, chirping with their fellow day trippers as we grunt and moan. They smile as they pass us as their Gucci sweat is absorbed by their state of the art trekking gear.
C) The Part Time Pilgrim. These hearty souls are predominately European in nature who because of their proximity to 'the way' decide to spend a week here and there over the course of the years completing their pilgrimage. They are up for a craic and are the classic definition of the 5 minute mate. You will catch up with them on a number of occasions and then suddenly, poof, they are gone. However; you continue to share stories with fellow pilgrims about them. Their goal is to finish the camino in 5 years? yours' 35 days.
D) The Pilgrim. A tight knit community identified by the camino shuffle and exploding blisters. We share stories of our thoughts as we walk and of other pilgrims we have meet. Each of us have our own reason for our journey, some share, other keep it private. They have a fuggy aroma to them and are always seen trekking in the same clothes since day one. This is our crew.
E) Hard-core Pilgrim. Even the normal pilgrim stop mid-stride when they come across these rare beasts. For instance, ' the God Hates Divorce' pilgrim blazed across his attire - its certainly not the inclusive God we know. The ' Mountain Girl' who is running the camino, when asked why, she replies, 'because l can.' 'Mary and Joseph' re-enactment, with donkey and two big dogs instead of sheep and finally, 'Dog Pilgrim', pilgrims who believe taking their dog on a 800 plus trek will provide them with enlightenment.
F) Speed-freak Pilgrim. Blink and they are gone. These pilgrims can be heard in loud voice, quoting how many kilometres they have done and will bend your ear with stats & maps that show their quest to complete the camino in 22 days at and average of 40kms a day. When asked what they have experienced or did they stop and look at this; they look at you are if you are retarded and point to their fit bit and their maps. You remind them that it's 'smiles rather than miles', they scoff and quickly move away searching for a similar speed-freak on the verge of stress fractures or delirium.
Wednesday, 19 April 2017
BUEN CAMINO!
The thud of the walking sticks reverberate though our bodies, the crunch of our dust coated boots drones across the stone strewn path and the pain invades the body. The Camino supposedly takes the walker on three distinct journeys - one of pain, meditation and finally a journey of faith and spiritual development.
The Camino is a brut; thus far, it has provided us with wonders: the sun setting over vineyards, where the first buds are awakening from the winter's thaw, across mountain plains that divide two nations. We have crossed valleys alive with colour, poppies sway in the morning breeze and a kaleidoscope of greens, pinks, yellows, reds and blues greet us. Forests swallow paths as fingers of sunshine dance between trunks and yoga moves are performed next to cascading rivers framed green with the flow of glacier water. On days such as these the camino has provided us with its own mediation quality and opportunity to reflect.
There are also days where the Camino punishes you. It provides you with utter bone numbing, brain zapping, zombie like boredom. It throws you across freeways, where the smell of exhaust fumes sting your eyes, it takes you through industrial estates where the remnants of the homeless linger, through residential properties, to operational factories that typify the oxymorn of recycle and pollute. The Camino spawns graffiti everywhere and at times becomes a commerical wonderland where slogans such as 'smile you are the 10,000,000 to walk the Camino this year' scream sarcasim to the profound 'it's smiles not miles that count', or if it doesn't challenge you then it wont change you.'.
We have felt all of these emotions thus far, but the what has stood out is a sense of liberation and adventure!
Buen Camino.
The Camino is a brut; thus far, it has provided us with wonders: the sun setting over vineyards, where the first buds are awakening from the winter's thaw, across mountain plains that divide two nations. We have crossed valleys alive with colour, poppies sway in the morning breeze and a kaleidoscope of greens, pinks, yellows, reds and blues greet us. Forests swallow paths as fingers of sunshine dance between trunks and yoga moves are performed next to cascading rivers framed green with the flow of glacier water. On days such as these the camino has provided us with its own mediation quality and opportunity to reflect.
There are also days where the Camino punishes you. It provides you with utter bone numbing, brain zapping, zombie like boredom. It throws you across freeways, where the smell of exhaust fumes sting your eyes, it takes you through industrial estates where the remnants of the homeless linger, through residential properties, to operational factories that typify the oxymorn of recycle and pollute. The Camino spawns graffiti everywhere and at times becomes a commerical wonderland where slogans such as 'smile you are the 10,000,000 to walk the Camino this year' scream sarcasim to the profound 'it's smiles not miles that count', or if it doesn't challenge you then it wont change you.'.
We have felt all of these emotions thus far, but the what has stood out is a sense of liberation and adventure!
Buen Camino.
A week in the life of a pilgrim.
A pilgrim's life brings forth a rollercoaster of emotions. The anticipation, exhilaration, the excitement of crossing the Pyreenes and the feeling of total liberation, knowing that all you are responsible for is putting one foot in front of another but also the frustration and fatigue, the aches and the pains brought on by the strenous treatment placed on your body.
A huge part of the Camino experince is the sense of community. The United Nations, 'buen camino' as like minded souls trek the well trodden way.
We have come across a rainbow of personalities; the lady at the pilgrim sign-in office at St Jean Pied de Port, with her orange platform shoes (that would put Minnie Mouse to shame) toting a gucci handbag. Needless to say we have not seen her along the way.
Lea is having private Spanish lessons from the singing pilgrim 'Francesco'. He gives her two new words to learn per day. He is her part-time yoga instructor as well!
Irish Seamus, a trusting soul followed obediently along the old track before turning back losing faith in Brad's navigational abilities. (Brad turned back 10 minutes later dazed and confused to finally find the correct path to the camino.)
Our Japanese Hiro with his many plastic bags in his knapsack can be spotted at various rest stops adjusting his wares. A pleasant fellow, always offering up Japanese treats, such as miso soup or pokki. Hiro, unfortunately is not a good room mate though as he snores like a trooper.
It is interesting to note that is acceptable to describe the Japanese fella, or the Danish girl when relating tales of the day.
Our first week has seen us travel 135.5 kms and it has provided us with an unique experience; looking back as we share a bottle of Bodegas vino tinto, we are blessed to have already generated so many memories and stories.
A huge part of the Camino experince is the sense of community. The United Nations, 'buen camino' as like minded souls trek the well trodden way.
We have come across a rainbow of personalities; the lady at the pilgrim sign-in office at St Jean Pied de Port, with her orange platform shoes (that would put Minnie Mouse to shame) toting a gucci handbag. Needless to say we have not seen her along the way.
Lea is having private Spanish lessons from the singing pilgrim 'Francesco'. He gives her two new words to learn per day. He is her part-time yoga instructor as well!
Irish Seamus, a trusting soul followed obediently along the old track before turning back losing faith in Brad's navigational abilities. (Brad turned back 10 minutes later dazed and confused to finally find the correct path to the camino.)
Our Japanese Hiro with his many plastic bags in his knapsack can be spotted at various rest stops adjusting his wares. A pleasant fellow, always offering up Japanese treats, such as miso soup or pokki. Hiro, unfortunately is not a good room mate though as he snores like a trooper.
It is interesting to note that is acceptable to describe the Japanese fella, or the Danish girl when relating tales of the day.
Our first week has seen us travel 135.5 kms and it has provided us with an unique experience; looking back as we share a bottle of Bodegas vino tinto, we are blessed to have already generated so many memories and stories.
Tuesday, 18 April 2017
The Nuptial of Mr & Mrs Lachlan & Bethany Greene
There are few days in one's life time that punctuate a memory more than a wedding, especially one that involves your own child. Here you are witnessing a life journey embedded in love and understanding and in the middle of this is your child who has grown from infancy, through adolescence, to adulthood, to the man lost in the eyes of his wife to be as they exchange their vowels of love.
The memory is re-enforced further when the wedding is an intimate affair of only immediate family (10) in total, who have come together to celebrate the love and life-long union of their sibling/child.
It was our absolute pleasure, nay honour to witness Lachlan take beautiful Bethany to be his wife. The stunning back drop of Port Douglas, framed by the chapel, Saint Mary's by the sea was the secret setting for the nuptials of Lachlan and Bethany.
As the tropical humidity simmered and the cicadas applauded, the Knights and the Greenes joined in unision in welcoming each others child into their fold.
Drinks and nibbles were served at Barbados on the marina. Followed by dinner at Salsas.
The memory is re-enforced further when the wedding is an intimate affair of only immediate family (10) in total, who have come together to celebrate the love and life-long union of their sibling/child.
It was our absolute pleasure, nay honour to witness Lachlan take beautiful Bethany to be his wife. The stunning back drop of Port Douglas, framed by the chapel, Saint Mary's by the sea was the secret setting for the nuptials of Lachlan and Bethany.
As the tropical humidity simmered and the cicadas applauded, the Knights and the Greenes joined in unision in welcoming each others child into their fold.
Bethany wore Lea's mum's wedding ring as something borrowed, which is starting to become a tradition. Elly played "falling in love" on the guitar as Bethany walked down the aisle. Brad and Bethany's mum, Sue did readings whilst Elly and Rob (Beth's brother) were witnesses. A two layered chocolate mud cake was made by Bethany's sister, Glenys. Very delicious indeed.
Drinks and nibbles were served at Barbados on the marina. Followed by dinner at Salsas.
Such a gorgeous, intimate celebration; full of love.
Thursday, 13 April 2017
Albergue Life.
Sleeping in a restored monastery sounded like a good idea, sharing the same idea with 200 other pilgrims - where the United Nations of flatulence join in unison and nationalities snore in their own dialect - not a great idea. Welcome to the world of a peregrino (pilgrim).
Within the albergue your eye patch and ear plugs become your new lover, where your pillow case and sleeping bag become a form of barrier nursing and your head torch allows you to Houdini like scamper from the top bunk without injury or persecution from other pilgrims you may have woken.
Each Albergue has its own unique qualities, from its unisex showers, all you can drink vino, cupboard size rooms that people smugglers would be proud of and drunken patrons who lay prostrate in corridors.
The camino is more than physical exertion; it is about building resilence, to define a strength of character. In fact, the Camino has tested us physically and emotionally, it has been everything we expected and so much more.
' lf it doesn't challenge you it won't change you.'
Within the albergue your eye patch and ear plugs become your new lover, where your pillow case and sleeping bag become a form of barrier nursing and your head torch allows you to Houdini like scamper from the top bunk without injury or persecution from other pilgrims you may have woken.
Each Albergue has its own unique qualities, from its unisex showers, all you can drink vino, cupboard size rooms that people smugglers would be proud of and drunken patrons who lay prostrate in corridors.
The camino is more than physical exertion; it is about building resilence, to define a strength of character. In fact, the Camino has tested us physically and emotionally, it has been everything we expected and so much more.
' lf it doesn't challenge you it won't change you.'
Tuesday, 11 April 2017
Over the Pyrenees.
It began on the cobble stoned streets of St Jean Pied de Port, where the souls of pilgrims long pass hung, mist like whispering 'buen camino' as we trekked through villages and farmlets. Postcard like images greeted us as we made our ascent up the brutal beast of the Pyrenees. Muscle memory kicked into over drive, courtesy of the hours spent memorising the road up to Copelode Dam and we were rewarded by the sight of Albergue Orisson as it materialised, mirage like over the crest.
This would be our first experience of dorm sleeping since our travels way back in 1999, and with the knowledge that we had 35 more nights of it, we embraced it as necessary. Our night at Orisson became one of pilgrim pass and as the wine flowed tales were shared and camino bonds were formed.
Day break greeted us with a blood orange sun, that drenched us in warmth as we made the climb to the summit. The path reads like a tribute to the recently departed pilgrims, who lost their way and life on the Camino. The trek is body numbing as the Peregrino God beats you with chilling winds and groaning peaks, but also instills inspiration and rejuvenation.
Our steps took us to the protector of the Shepherds, Mother Mary; who sits on an out crop of rocks and protects all, as they pass her way. Onward, we ascended through the last remnants of melting snow, across goat tracks and past rescue huts until our footsteps took us over to the Spanish border and into the valley of Roncevalles. A monastery dating back to the 1700's awaited, along with a pilgrim mass; where prayers for our safe journey were given and received with gratitude.
So far, it has been a liberating experience and we look forward to the next 790 km!
Friday, 7 April 2017
The beginning!
Eyes hang from stems, zombie feet shuffle and fuggy mouth causing a gagging reflux (Brad only as Lea brushed several times); all thanks to our three flights, two trains and 40 sleepless hours. Our final train rolled into Bayonne at 11pm where the Hotel Cote Basque greeted our water-boarded bodies.
Morning saw us exploring grand Bayonne with its medieval streets and lorax like trees criss-crossing through out the the township. Our wandering took us up to Cathedral et Cloister where saints reigned down from stained glass windows and steeples raised to the heavens. We boarded our final bus and the realisation that the ‘Way of St James’ beckoned.
With our pilgrim passport embossed with its first stamp and our shell festooned to our backpacks, it was time to explore the walled town of St Jean Pied de Port. ‘The foot of the pass’ is the offical starting point of our sojourn and what a little gem she is. Picturesque houses huddle along the river spanned by a photogenic medieval bridge, a citadel whose fortifications twisted and brutal, erupt from the ground, spreading its tentacles outward to protect the the town from the marauding Spanish and to act as a raiding base for the French.
Each street oozes its own history and door frames adorn years that pre date white settlement in Australia; infact, decaying tombs fallings from their foundations tell stories of yesteryear, which to our eyes is hard to fathom. Each maze of streets supports artisans ranging from bread, chocolate, pastries to the famous La Fabrique De Macaroons, where delightful flavours such as lemon, chilli and coconut teased our tastebuds. The delicate tastes of ghe macaroons was soon stripped bare by our first pilgrim dinner that consisted of a salt water broth, chicken that was rejected by the Colonel Sanders himself and fries so over cooked that they looked like the toes of a 100 a day smoker.
Bon appetit!
Morning saw us exploring grand Bayonne with its medieval streets and lorax like trees criss-crossing through out the the township. Our wandering took us up to Cathedral et Cloister where saints reigned down from stained glass windows and steeples raised to the heavens. We boarded our final bus and the realisation that the ‘Way of St James’ beckoned.
With our pilgrim passport embossed with its first stamp and our shell festooned to our backpacks, it was time to explore the walled town of St Jean Pied de Port. ‘The foot of the pass’ is the offical starting point of our sojourn and what a little gem she is. Picturesque houses huddle along the river spanned by a photogenic medieval bridge, a citadel whose fortifications twisted and brutal, erupt from the ground, spreading its tentacles outward to protect the the town from the marauding Spanish and to act as a raiding base for the French.
Each street oozes its own history and door frames adorn years that pre date white settlement in Australia; infact, decaying tombs fallings from their foundations tell stories of yesteryear, which to our eyes is hard to fathom. Each maze of streets supports artisans ranging from bread, chocolate, pastries to the famous La Fabrique De Macaroons, where delightful flavours such as lemon, chilli and coconut teased our tastebuds. The delicate tastes of ghe macaroons was soon stripped bare by our first pilgrim dinner that consisted of a salt water broth, chicken that was rejected by the Colonel Sanders himself and fries so over cooked that they looked like the toes of a 100 a day smoker.
Bon appetit!
Monday, 3 April 2017
A pilgrim's life!
Bonjour,
A pilgrim's life is not an easy one! Even before reaching the starting line at Saint Jean Pied de Port, the tests begin.
Unlike Dr Who in his tardis, it has taken us 30 hours to teleport from Cairns to Paris including a pitstop in Hong Kong on the way. Battle fatigue is not an adequate description of how we are feeling at present.
We arrived in Heathrow, London in time for a beautiful sunrise. Feeling sleepy, we anticipated a relaxing couple of hours waiting for our flight to Paris. The Pilgrim God , however had other ideas. After a trip to the bathroom, Lea realised that she came out without the document wallet containing passports, tickets and money. She retraced her steps within a minute, only to find the wallet gone.
With sinking hearts, we began to think that maybe our journey would be over before it really began....... Hallelujah, faith restored in mankind. Patron Saint of travellers came good. Documents were handed into security!
After a runway journey longer than the flight, we have arrived in Paris. Only 4 hour transit until we board the train to Bayonne! All going well we should arrive about 11pm making the trip over a grand total of 46 hours!
Good morning Heathrow!
Lights of London!
Charles De Gaulle Railway!
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