Train travel in India can only be truly understood by those who have endured the experience. Pungent stations, the homeless, beggars and defecating cattle are all part and parcel. Over crowding is the norm and multi layered bunks squirm with life. For ten hours we endured, cramped and sleep deprived as we travel from Orchha to Allahabad. It is at Allahabad that the most holiest of rivers flows and is the place where we boarded our traditional sailing boat. (Sailing boat is an overstatement, more a row boat!). Garlands of marigolds cover the boat and wrap themselves around our necks.
Our boat glides like a celestial being on a journey to meet Lord Shiva as the mist swarms across the Ganges. Fishing boats emerge and smiling faces greet us. Meals are served as we float in the tranquil surrounds and when the sunset approaches, we disembark on to a small oasis. Dome tents are erected and the drop hole toilet is dug. Yak hair blankets provide warmth as cold bodies huddle around the blazing bonfire and stories of adventures are shared. As night encompasses the camp wild dogs begin to howl. Cremation fires light up the adjacent river bank as the chants from a nearby by temple lull us into a canvas of sleep.
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