Moto-Hakone

It's a rare experience wondering the streets of Moto-hakone watching the cloud cover engulf Lake Ashi and the feeling of being the only ones present in the township.  Strolling through the Torii gates, past the stone buddhas finding ourselves devoured by the Cedar Avenue that frames the Old Takaido Highway. You can easily imagine a ninja dissolving into the filtered light whilst the mighty old man cedar reaches skyward to provide a canopy of protection for both the walker and their assailants. There are so many lovely walks around the lake area that we lost track of time as we meandered. We wandered the grounds of The Hakone-Jingi Shrine and down to shrine's Torii gates standing proud in the waters of Lake Ashi; It is this view of these red gates that we enjoyed from our out door onsen.
   

The locals informed us that on a clear day the mighty Fuji can be seen towering over the township thus providing one of the most photogenic opportunities around.  Unfortunately, we had yet to see the elusive Fuji. Taking matters into our own hands, we jumped aboard the pirate sightseeing ship bound for the Hakone Ropeway to try and catch a glimpse.  On our way, we witnessed volcanic vapours escaping from vents carved out of the side of Mt Owakendi. As our capsule was invaded with the stench of sulphur (or Brad's rumbling stomach, both have a similar smell) we decided to disembark to explore.  Here we sampled the local delicacy of 'Black Eggs'. The kuro-tamago or black eggs can be purchased in bags of five. The eggs are just ordinary chook eggs but the shell turns black when boiled in the hot sulphur spring. Local tradition holds that for each black egg eaten, seven years is added to one's life. However, some say that eating more than two is not recommended.  Shame we ate all five. The eggs have a smokey flavour, an acquired taste just like a minke whale burger.

With still no sight of Fuji, we decided to make the journey back to our Ryokan via the Tozan cable car. Low and behold upon our return, we were rewarded with an amazing view of the majestic Fuji. Finally we could relax with a soak in the onsen and a cold Hakone Shichitou pilsner biru.
Kanpai!






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