2015, Bring it on!

What better way to bring in the New year than a hike on the Chisapan Nagarkot trek! 2014 has been a year of good times and some challenges. We wish all our family and friends a new year full of love, laughter and adventure. Om!

Gliding on the Ganges!

Train travel in India can only be truly understood by those who have endured the experience. Pungent stations, the homeless, beggars and defecating cattle are all part and parcel. Over crowding is the norm and multi layered bunks squirm with life. For ten hours we endured, cramped and sleep deprived as we travel from Orchha to Allahabad. It is at Allahabad that the most holiest of rivers flows and is the place where we boarded our traditional sailing boat. (Sailing boat is an overstatement, more a row boat!). Garlands of marigolds cover the boat and wrap themselves around our necks.

Our boat glides like a celestial being on a journey to meet Lord Shiva as the mist swarms across the Ganges. Fishing boats emerge and smiling faces greet us.  Meals are served as we float in the tranquil surrounds and when the sunset approaches, we disembark on to a small oasis. Dome tents are erected and the drop hole toilet is dug. Yak hair blankets provide warmth as cold bodies huddle around the blazing bonfire and stories of adventures are shared. As night encompasses the camp wild dogs begin to howl. Cremation fires light up the adjacent river bank as the chants from a nearby by temple lull us into a canvas of sleep.

Outstanding Orchha

We stand on the edge of the dilapidated bridge as the river rages. The sun bathes us in its orche embrace as we share the bridge with the oncoming trucks . As the sunset burns the landscape and silhouettes the Cenotaph of Maharaja Sujan Singh, we hold our breath as the whiff of petrol fumes gags in our throat and the vacuum of air from the passing trucks sucks us towards the rivers depth.  The sacrifice was worth it to capture mother nature at her most vulnerable; that period where the day weeps away and the night roars.  Babas emerge from unknown crevices and fasten themselves to rocks to meditate. In an attempt to gather some understanding of the Hindu way we watch the Priest give out blessings to the masses as he bathes them in rosewater and basil. The poverty of village life becomes prevalient in the subsistence lifestyle and their dependence on cottage industries.  School children make their way to resource poor classrooms in a hope of breaking the cycle of poverty and we sample freshly prepared food cooked in an authentic kitchen.

In Orchha, grandeur is captured in stone, frozen in time; a rich legacy of the ages.  The palaces and temples built by its Bundela rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries,  retain much of their pristine perfection.  Orchha boasts the Raj Mahal, Lexminarayan temple as well as the impressive Jehangir Mahal, a tiered palace crowned by graceful chhatris, where monkeys trapeze across rooftops and rabid dogs howl.

As we sit by the sacred river and watch garlands of marigolds float by, we are again entranced by the beauty of India.

Taj Mahal!

Sometimes its the imperfections that reflect the true beauty of an object. The small chip, the subtle change of colour in a particular light, the worn handle, all give character and show a life lived. Perfection sometimes breeds sterility, a place where the senses are confused, so when one is faced with viewing the Taj Mahal, mixed messages are transmitted. One can see the perfection and be over awed by it all, but at the same time be a tad deflated by the uptopia.

Standing tall, the Taj Mahal is proof of the undying love Emperor Shah Jahah had for his wife, both in life and in death. This marble masterpiece of design which took 32 year to build is a shrine to the King's beloved and tomb to both.

Karl Pinklington surmised whether a cost can be put on love when he stated that "a normal bloke buys flowers when he has done something wrong ... can you imagine the shit that this guy must have done to build this".

To us, it was the Agra Fort that provided us with the wow factor. The fort was where the Emperor ruled and it is the place where both his wife and himself would die.  It is a place that has character, imperfection and tells a story of power, love, betrayal and death.

Merry Christmas!

Krismatic Karauli!

With the warm flatulence of the camel wafting over us the giggle loop is well and truly started.  Our camel cart journey takes us through the Karauli village on our way to the City Palace.  Sharing narrow pot holed  roads on a flat bed cart without suspension is a bone jarring event, but an event filled with great humour.  We are provided with an amazing cinema scope of village life with its kaleidoscope of colours as we are followed by a cavalcade of laughing children.

The City Palace itself is a breathtaking relic built in the 17th century; it now lays dilapidated  surrounded by an urban sprawl.   We explore the king and queen's chambers, pose on large ottomans next to rich frescoes and fine carvings, we look down upon the King's Tiger skinning table and trek across the roof top to watch the sun set.

Karauli is a little gem and a port of tranquility after the madness of Delhi and Jaipur and as we drink Kingfisher in the old Raj's ballroom, , decorate our hands with henna and pose with a stuff tiger we realise how diverse this country is.

JAIPUR - The Pink City.

If we thought Delhi was mad, then Jaipur is on another planet. Sacred cows roam freely on major road ways, monkeys share the stage with goats, feral pigs, camels and the locals. The city is bathed in orche as the claustrophobic mass of people swirl past. The flower market with its rose petals and marigolds provide a strong contrast to the grime of the city.

The mighty Jantar Mantar sundail stands sentinel like commanding time, snake charmers scam with their hypnotic melody, decorated elephants transport visitors up to the gates of the Amber fort, whilst black faced monkeys squawk their welcome.  Again we sample the local street cuisine and watch in amusement as a sacred cow dines with us!  Bollywood calls and we join the locals at the cinema to to watch Action Jackson in all his Hindu glory.  We visit the Hawarmahal aka  Palace of the Winds which stands monolithic like with its decorative gates that represent  the four seasons. As another day in Jaipur comes to an end we sit on the rooftop of our hotel, a Kingfisher beer in our hands and watch the sky come alive with dualling kites.

Delhi: A city of contradictions!

India is a land of contradictions; it has immense beauty and abject squalor,  ancient wonders and a city in decay. It is a city that gets under your skin.  The Delhi  that we experienced had streets strangled with traffic, beggars pleading, a sepia landscape that washes over the people and its surroundings,  hawkers peddling their trade whilst monkeys smile down from balconies, and all manner of animals merander along the streets.

We wonder through alley ways crammed with life; our taste buds are massaged by freshly brewed Chai as we sample the mighty Samosa from the street vendors and sit to watch the hectic life that is Delhi go by.  Our ear drums reverberate to the constant sound of horns and our eyes water from the pollution and black snot escapes with every tissue blown.  Amongst the chaos we witness great beauty; the Sheik Temple that provides free food and lodging for those in need, Lodi Park with the Shish - Gumbad tombs, the ancient water wells of Ugrasen ki Baoli , Indian Gate and the Presidential Palace and the smile of young children brought to life by a simple clip on Koala.

Our first taste of India smashes the senses but it also slowly worms itself into your heart.

Friendships born from travel!

Travel allows you to meet so many wonderful people and it also allows you to obtain a snap-shot of their life.   Such a window of opportunity opened up for us on our first day in Delhi when the Nirula family allowed us to spend the day with them.

Obtaining a local's persceptive opens up a new dimension to travel.  Sheela, Ajeet, Tarini and Shivani allowed us to share their table and feast upon traditional Indian wares.  They also provided us with an opportunity to see places like Lodi Park with its Shish-Gumbad tombs built by the Lodi sultans (1451-1526), the Habitat Centre and the Super Malls of New Delhi.  

Most of all they provided us with the opportunity to share stories, to reflect on the importance of family and to form an understanding that travel unites us all.

So to the Nirula family, thank you for your hospitality and your friendship.

Indulgence at Bintan Island!

Sometimes it is just plain nice to indulge in a little luxury before hitting the hustle and bustle of backpacking life. Our choice prior to experiencing India at full throttle was Bintan Island.

Pristine beaches, turquoise ocean safe to swim in (won't kill you like Cairns), elephant rides, lounging underneath a cabana, drinking smuggled Bintang from the local village, strolling hand in hand along the beach and eating superb Indonesian dishes sums up our time on Bintan Island beautifully.

Singapore Snapshot

As cultural origin goes, Singapore is a fusion of national identities; a melting pot of diversity.  From its colonial hertiage typified by Raffles, its occupation under imperial Japan, its formation as a Parliamentary Republic, its architecture wonderland and its brand name shopping, Singapore is certainly the gateway to the world.

Mythology is full of part animal, part humanoid beast, and the Merlion is certainly up there with the juxtaposition of weirdness.   Half fish, (mermaid/men) and half lion. It sits spewing out water as a greeting to all and sundry. Lin Nang Seng who built the 70 tonne beast took as his inspiration the historic perspective of Singapore as a fishing village, (Sea Town) and its original name (Singapura) Lion City.

No greater evidence to its metropolitan lifestyle exists than walking along Riverside Quay.  Here you witness table tennis balls following your footsteps, as serious beer pongers seek glory, Bollywood bellies contort, a serenade of carolers summoning joyful goodwill to all, illuminated Christmas trees reflections on  river and sorrowful Alantic and Australian Snow crabs await their demise.  It's certainly a city alive, but it's a hell of an expensive place to eat and drink.

Business Class Bogan!

Like a kangaroo stunned in the beams of an approaching road train about to become fresh road kill, we await our stewards questioning glance.  Raised eyebrows greet us as we present our boarding pass and we shuffle to our space-aged capsule.  The capsule seems to have been designed by a yoga master due to its ability to manipulate you into pose after pose.  We are soon laughing our heads off as we get caught between a downward dog and a sun salutation.

The menu triggers the Pavlo's dog instinct with its slow roasted Blackmores Wagyu, Pan fried black cobia, with roasted red capsicum, artichokes,  kipfler potatoes and olive tapenads, Murraylands lamb rack with roast tomatoes,  white beans, sugar snaps, anchovy and rosemary vinaigrette and not a Big Mac in sight.

Our glasses are never empty as champagne corks pop, Glenlivet scotch settles over the rocks, lime slices float in the Gin and Tonic and hipster beers' condensation dances down the glass. Cheers!

There is so much room in our capsule that we are able to run our own zumba lesson and invite our neighbours in for a drink session. Best of all; however, is when the Qantas Crew covers your seat with a plush mattress and the abundance of alcohol kicks in, your finger reaches for that magical button, and your capsule comes alive. Slowly your seat slides down into a bed and a peaceful sleep awaits.

God bless business class!

In the world kitchen, Mexico!

A Mexican diet relies on staples of beans, rice, corn tortillas, chilli  and fresh fruits. Tacos, fajitas, empanadas and quesadillas are a popular menu choice.

The Quesadilla is basically a Mexican style toastie made with 2 tortillas sandwiched together with filling of choice. Warmed through and served with guacamole and sour cream, it makes a delicious, light meal. Teamed with a margarita or 3 and you are in for a delightful time.

 BASIC QUESADILLAS WITH GUACAMOLE

INGREDIENTS

• For the guacamole

• 2-3½ avocados
• 4-5 tomatoes
• 2 red chillies
• chopped spring onions
• 1 good handful fresh coriander
• sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1 squeeze lemon or lime juice
• 
  

• For the quesadillas

• 2 big handfuls grated Cheddar 
• chopped spring onions
• 2 handfuls fresh coriander
• 1 red pepper
• red or green chillies
• tortillas
• sour cream to serve.

METHOD

Put ingredients for guacamole in food processor and chop until a chunky texture. 

Mix quesadilla ingredients together and sprinkle half a handful between two layers of tortillas. Fry in a non stick fry pan on medium heat for about a minute and a half on each side until the outside is really crispy with an oozy filling. Serve cut into quarters with guacamole and soured cream.

BUEN APETITO!

Grog Blog! Tequila in Mexico!

Tequila dates back to pre-Hispanic times. The ancient tribes of Mexico would ferment the sap from the agave plant to be used as a part of ritual ceremonies. The evolution of the mighty tequila came with the Spanish invasion.

                                                     

To worm or not to worm?
A common misconception world wide is about the worm in the bottle. Agave worms were first added during bottling in the 1940s as a marketing stunt. Truth is tequila does not have the worm but mezcal does. Tequila can only be made using blue agave whilst mezcal can use many different agave varieties. Different process, different taste therefore a different drink.

How to drink tequila? There is no correct way as it can be enjoyed in many ways and is really just personal preference.

LSP!
Lick the skin between your thumb and index finger. Shake a bit of salt on your skin. With a tequila shot and lime wedge in hand lick the salt, shoot the tequila and then suck on the lime chaser.

Popular cocktails include the margarita, tequila sunrise, paloma and the brave bull.

All we can really advise is that when life gives you lemons, grab the tequila and salt!

Reminiscence! Mayan Quest, Mexico and Guatemala!

 The world of Tacos, Tequila and Temples! Our tour across this part of Central America started in Cancun and finished in Antigua, We chose the 10 day Intrepid  tour " Mayan Quest".  This tour was described as full of history and culture of the ancient Maya civilization. We visited the great wonder Chichen Itza as well as the  Uxmal and Palenque ruins but spent many long hours in the  mini bus. Thank god for Tequila and our great tour mates. Although we visited lovely towns such as San Cristobal de las Casa and Panajachel, we felt that this tour just was not functional as you had very little time at the sites .  We have since learnt that this tour is no longer running.

Recommendations;


-Read the trip notes of tour before choosing.
-Steer clear of tours that cover great distances in a bus.
-Purchase alcohol to share on long bus trip.
-Hike Pacaya at Antigua
-Visit the Isle of Mujeres (off Cancun) for a couple of days if you have the time. We stayed at Casa Roca Caribe (a lovely, self contained two bedroom unit over looking the Caribbean ocean) http://www.casarocacaribe.com/ MAGIC!

In the world kitchen! Uncle Sam!

PUMPKIN PIES

INGREDIENTS;

395g tin of condensed milk

3/4 cup mashed pumpkin

1 tsp cinnamon

1/2 ginger

1/2 all spice

1/2 tsp salt

short crust pastry

2 eggs

METHOD:

Cut the pastry into rounds to fit muffin/patty cake tin. Spray tin with oil and line with rounds. Pre heat oven to 200c. Combine condensed milk, pumpkin, eggs,spices and salt. Whisk until mix is smooth and well combined. Pour mix into rounds and bake in oven for 15 mins reduce heat to 180c and bake a further 25 mins or until filling is firm. Dust with a little nutmeg and serve hot or cold with greek yoghurt. 

N.B. you can make one large pie if you prefer.


                                             

Grog blog! Drinking Around the World - America

There has always been a misconception that American Beer is weaker than beer in Australia.  Just have a quick squiz at that magic number that tells you the alcohol content and you will see it significantly lower than Australian Beers.  However, if you look closely you will see the letters ABW are printed after that number.  For you see American beer is sold by Alcohol by Weight not Alcohol by Volume as in most western countries.  So if you purchase a Coors, a Bud or Millers that has an ABW listed instead of an ABV, the alcohol content is going to be higher than you think.  Likewise, the term Light Beer in American doesn't relate to ABW or ABV but rather to calorie content (so the marketing gurus tell us.)

Ever since President Jimmy Carter legalised home production of beer in 1978, the craft beer craze has swept through hipster nation and now big brand names such as Budweiser have become un-cool, mainstream, and even embarrassing. Instead of big beer, people have turned to micro-brews and craft brands.

Reminiscence! Grand Canyon and Havasu falls!

What is a visit to the United States without checking out the magnificent Grand Canyon!  So, we hired a car and drove along the famous Route 66 on the wrong/right side of the road until we reached Flagstaff. The original plan was to do a mule assisted hike into the Canyon. Like a lot of popular world wonders, you need to apply for a permit. The ballot was not drawn in our favour but we believe it was a blessing in disguise. We took up the offer of a 4 day hike to Havasu Falls in the Canyon Village of Supai. Only a very small number of people actually do this hike. It was a stunning, more remote part of the Canyon belonging to Havasupai Indian reservation. The mules carried all the gear to the camp site, so we could just enjoy the spectacular scenery. Turquoise waterfalls spill into travertine pools, creating a stunning oasis in the desert. We hiked around the area for a couple of days visiting Mooney Falls, Beaver Falls, Fifty Foot Falls and Carbonite Canyon before making our way back.


Hints.

The Wilderness Trekking Company were outstanding.  Eddie our guide was amazing!

We took our own sleeping bags but the company does supply every thing.

We recommend the 4 day hike as 3 days would just not be long enough.  Day 1 consists of an 8 hour hike in and Day 4 an 8 hour hike out.   Day 2 & 3 Hiking the falls area.

Reminiscence! Good Old USA!

We only covered a tiny bit of all America has to offer, visiting New York City, Las Vegas and The Grand Canyon region.

TIPPING!

Tipping is the big bug bear for Aussies when travelling the world. Our Texan friends told us to just double the tax on the bill for your tip.

It is interesting to note that the the minimum wage for tipped employees has been frozen under Federal law at $2.13/hour for over two decades. Despite the fact that the minimum wage for non-tipped employees has since increased from $5.15/hour to $7.25/hour.  It certainly isn't helping servers and bartenders, the overwhelming majority of whom would much rather make a decent guaranteed wage like their counterparts in every other country. It's not doing anything for customers, either, many of whom feel extorted and uncomfortable buying into a coercive system that abuses the parties on both ends. So who stands to gain?

The sad truth is that it benefits the same group as virtually everything else in America: corporations and business owners. How it helps them is obvious: they get to off-load their labour costs to their customers, paying one third of the minimum wage to the majority of their front-of-house employees.

GETTING AROUND NYC!

The easiest and quickest way to travel Uptown or Downtown in NYC is by public subway train. Riding the subway is also a fantastic way to feel like a local during your stay in New York. Subway trains operate 24 hours a day, seven days a week. For $2.50 (the cost of a single ride when using a pay-per-ride MetroCard), you can use the system citywide and transfer to other subway lines as many times as you need, as long as you don't exit the system through a turnstile. We purchased one pre paid metro card and the beauty of this card was that we were allowed to use it for both of us.

NEW YORK PASS!

Think carefully before purchasing the New York Pass. We found it not really of great value. Most people overestimate the number of things they'd like to see and do on vacation in New York City, so if you're coming up close to the break even point, it might make more sense to pay a la carte for your sightseeing. If you're going to be in town for a week, the New York Pass may be seen as an option, especially because you can evaluate a few different attractions and even return to the ones you like the most.

THE THEATRE!

Seeing a Broadway show is a must when visiting  New York City, but tickets to see these world-class shows aren't very cheap. If you're looking to save money and still enjoy an amazing Broadway Show, here are some tips.  With Broadway ticket prices averaging over $100 each, substantial savings are available through various Broadway discount ticket resources. Broadway discount tickets purchased at a TKTS Booth are typically 25-50% off full-price, meaning you'll pay about $60-$85 per ticket. Standing Room Only and Rush Broadway discount tickets will cost approximately $35 and Broadway discount tickets purchased through Broadway discount ticket newsletters and websites are typically 25-50% off full-price, meaning you'll pay about $60-85 per ticket. There are so many theatre shows to choose from; however, shows do not perform every day of the week.

ACCOMMODATION!

In NYC we stayed in the Milford hotel. It was a great location, situated in the theatre district and was just around the corner from Times Square. (Why it is called a Square, is bewildering. It is more of a oblong shape). The front lobby/entrance of the Milford is chaotic and for some reason on the second floor.   Unfortunately no one told us at check in that you had to press the lift button number for the floor and wait to be told which elevator to enter. So as you can imagine, we pushed the button, jumped in and watched as our floor zoomed by.  It was a scene for Ground Hog Day, for 15 minutes we zoomed up and down, not once stopping at our floor. Crumpled and hugging our luggage in the corner we waited. We pictured the news headlines, "two Australians found in New York elevator dehydrated and emancipated, mumbling incoherently over and over again the number 7".  Our saviour came in the form of 2 young Australian girls who had suffered a similar fate and who shared the secret of the elevator with us.

LAS VEGAS!

"What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas" or so the saying goes.... Great for the party animal; you want it , you got it 24/7. You can wander around and soak up the artificial atmosphere whilst sipping on a lethal cocktail from your very own sippy cup that is hanging around your neck. Classy! Gamble high rolling style or do what we did; find a 1 cent machine and take a pew. If you are gambling, you can order free drinks from the skimpy dressed waitress (it will of course cost you a tip). Outlay after a two hours was $5. Winnings: 4 coronas and $10. Laughin'

ROAD TRIP

What is America without a road trip on Route 66? We rented a car from Alamo car rentals for our drive from Vegas to Flagstaff. Competitive prices and friendly service. It is a good idea to rent the GPS with the car. Another option, if on a long road trip is to buy a cheap GPS when you arrive in USA. Do the math!

Filling up the tank. America has a prepaid system. You pay first then fill up with gas and then collect your change from attendant. Gas is very cheap compared to our Australian prices!

We stayed in the Drury Inn, Flagstaff whilst on our road trip. The Drury Hotel franchise is great value for money. Joining their loyalty system will give you even greater discounts. The staff are welcoming and the rooms comfortable, There is an indoor pool and spa, guest laundry, free popcorn and soft drink available 24/7. Every evening from 5.30pm they provide a free buffet of hot food in the dining room You are also entitled to 3 free alcoholic drinks from the bar per day. Full buffet breakfast is also included. Fabulous value for the buck!