Sunday 18 March 2018

A postcard from Krakow!


Every step upon the cobble-stones of Krakow old town is etched in a history of euphoria, despair and suffering.  The old town has been witness to royal coronations, plague, sieges, triumph and subjugation.  It is a town of paradox, and was one of the big surprise packages of our wanderings across Europe.

Rynek Glowny (Main Square) built in 1257 is Europe’s biggest medieval square and it is here that locals and travelers converge.  Restaurants outline the square, the homeless congregate, seek morsels of food from an abandoned plate or finish a half-empty beer.  Gypsies offer roses under the guise of a gift which soon turns into a haggle over payment and adorned carriages with regal horse’s canter around the square allowing their passengers to soak in the ambience.  

It is at St Mary’s Basilica, where the ethereal sounds of St Mary’s dawn descend upon the township.  The five-note polish anthem is played four times in succession from each window on the hour and if you time your climb up the tower to perfection, you will be at the apex as the trumpeter’s lips vibrate across the brass valve and the sound waves crash over.  A climb up the tower is also a great way to take in the views of Krakow!

The wealth of Krakow was derived from the salt mines that bore deep into the earth’s being.  The most famous of these is Wieliczka.  Wieliczka salt mine, which opened in the 13th Century, is home to hand-chiseled, salt-hewn figurines that line the mine’s winding tunnels and underground chambers and the amazing Chapel of St. Kinga.    

Krakow like most medieval, European cities was once fortified; these walls embraced its inhabitants with an artificial sense of  protection.   With its wealth, Krakow was high on the want list of  neighbouring powers, but it was the 'Partitioning of Poland' by Emperor Franz of Austro-Hungry in 1817, that saw the fortification of the walled city slowly dismantled. Sadly, the Goliath-like Barbican and Florianska Gate are all that remain from this gothic period. The removal of the walls provided an opportunity for a green zone to be established and Planty Park was commissioned. 

Planty Park, in summer with the abundant gardens, monuments and tree lined paths is a great place to enjoy a zywiec and people watch as the twilight draws in.  Planty is also the starting point for free walking tours around Krakow. These range from the macabre to the historic and are free in the sense that there is no upfront cost, but rather a tipping system at the conclusion of the walk.


Wawel Castle with its imposing Cathedral dominate the sky line.  It is here that the legend of the Wawel dragon is populated and folklore shared.  The Wawel dragon lived in a cave at the front of Wawel hill on the bank of the Vistula River and as with all good myths a number of versions exist.   The cobbler's apprentice interpretation is most imaginative.  Every morning the dragon would wake, devour live stock, pillage towns and enjoy a nice maiden or two.  The King offered a decree to all the knights and warriors of the land to rid the countryside of the beast and the victor would win his daughter's hand in marriage.  All tried but failed until a cobbler's apprentice took up the challenge.  He stuffed a lamb with sulfur, put it outside the lair; when the dragon awoke it consumed the lamb filled with sulphur and was forced to drink from the Vistula River until it exploded.  The cobbler married the Princess and they lived happy ever-after.

The Wawel Royal Castle and the Wawel Hill constitute the most historically significant site in the country and in 1978 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Historic Centre of Krakow.

 So much history, folklore and culture to be devoured in this little gem of Krakow!






















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