Sri Lanka: Negombo & Anuradhapura!

 First stop, Negombo.

A lovely little seaside town to start our sojourn. We were accommodated in the Rani beach resort, strolled along the beach, enjoyed cocktails by the pool and just relaxed before the tour began. Dinner was on the beach with the promise of a fire show. Yipee! Much to our amusement, the fire show turned our to be nothing but a bon fire. Ha ha

Blood red was the sun as it cascaded across Negombo fish market, spot lighting  the creatures spewed from the depths of the ocean.  The ground turned crimson to match the awakening sun as fish innards splattered like a monsoonal storm and scales become adrift, falling like dandruff.  Crows feasted on the waste scattered by the cacophony of fisherman who bantered and shared tales of conquests, whilst dogs salivated and guarded this carnage. This market is a vegan’s worst nightmare.  The obnoxious odour burns into pores and penetrates the senses; the sounds of auctioneers screaming mixes with machetes cutting and gorging through flesh causing a tsunami of goosebumps.  A must-see incubus!

Tuk tuk negotiations took us to the esplanade where fisherman mending nets and boats await the call of the sea.  The dry fish market sweeps across the sun-baked foreshore. The men gut and scale the catch of the day whilst the women tend to the drying process, rotating, stacking and sorting of the mummified fish. 

Onward to Anuradhapura World Heritage site.

We donned our bicycle helmets (decided against the lycra accompaniment) and hit the bitumen in the sacred city of Anuradhapura.  This city froths around Buddha and the Bodhi sapling that was transported here in the 3rd century by Sanghamitta. 

We explored ancient ruins that spilt forth huge bell shaped Stupas, ponds and palaces. We felt the second of Buddha’s Noble Truths (we are born to suffer), as we walked on stoneware that resembles the hot coals of fire walkers. With piston liked legs, we pummelled our way towards Ruwanwelisay and Mirisawetiya Stupas, built like all good monuments to celebrate the blood shed of victory at war by King Dutugamunu between 140 – 160 BC and which hold relics associated with Buddha.

Our legs became torpid, as the sun began to bleed dry, we came to a halt in front of what was once the largest Stupa in the world at 122m high and the 3rd largest structure in the ancient world – Jetauanaramaya.  Entombed inside the Stupa is a sash once tied by Buddah).  Finally, we sat and watched the sunset dance across Thissa Wewa reservoir as local families wash and skylark in its water.   

 Bohoma sthuthi for this amazing start to our adventure.

                                    
                                   
                              

                                 
                                           
                                  
                                     

                                 

Happy Hammams!

Evolving from the Ottoman Empire, the hammam is the social hub of Moroccan daily life. Baths are separated by gender and locals are known to spend hours there gossiping with friends.

When visiting a foreign country, we always try to embrace the culture as much as possible and luckily in today's tourist world, a method of luxurious cleansing and relaxation was on offer.  Thus, we decided to let our inhibitions run wild and booked in. Our fearless guide Fouad recommended 'the 5 elements'; so we wound our way through a Medina in Marrakesh to a beautiful, white washed, building with magnificent archways.

Directed to change into hooded, fluffy, white gowns, and then led to the steam room,  we sat and sweated  in a temperature of a volcano's core. Moving on to the cleansing room, we lay (in only our undies) like slabs of salmon on  marble benches. Our attendants chatted and giggled as they put us through our paces. They  lathered our bodies with a brown mud like mix and proceeded to exfoliate with loofah mitts. A great source of amusement came when they showed us the enormous amount of dead skin removed.

After showering and another sauna, we were ushered to the next station. The massage! The masseuses were very thorough,  they honed in and concentrated on our weak spots and left us feeling very supple and relaxed. Still it was not over, we lounged on day beds, drank mint tea and reflected on how marvellous life is!


                                

                                   

                                     


                                     

Wanderings through Morocco 2

Our sojourn finally took us away from the urban sprawl of industrial cities and the people smugglers of Tangier, to the fabled Atlas mountains.  These snow-capped peaks jutted upwards framed by arid valleys and mud brick Berber villages; a much needed respite from the frantic streets of Casablanca, Fez, and Marrakech.

It is at the village of Imlil that we placed our overnight gear on to a pack-mule, slapped on our hiking gear and embarked on an exploration, first to Aroumd - a traditional mountain village perched on a rocky outcrop that provides breath-taking views of the High Atlas Mountains and then later on to Sidi Chamharouch - the White Shrine.  This ramble took us across rock strewn flood plains to a track etched into a mountainside, and like goats in an Argon tree, we climbed upwards.

As our senses captured the beauty surrounding us, our paths crossed with fellow hikers, waving freedom flags - The Berber national flag that signifies an affinity with the sea (blue), the mountains (green), the desert (yellow) and the 'Yaz', the free man.

Late afternoon, as the temperature plummeted, we greeted the White Shine of Sidi Chamharouch, which sits overlooking a cascading waterfall.  It is here that the disenfranchised and disillusioned pilgrim trek, seeking guidance from Allah to overcome their malaise.  Sacrifices occur and offerings of goats and chickens are given to the local village members by those afflicted with this angst.  Here they will stay until their thoughts clear and a positive disposition fills them. After making our way back down to Imlil, we spent the  evening  with a traditional Berber family, enjoying a delicious meal and homely hospitality.

New Year Eve sees us on the move to the fringe of the Sahara.  Our ears popped as we wound our way through Tizi n'Tichka, Morocco's highest pass at 2260m to Ait Benhaddou.   One of Morocco's iconic sites and a tourist mecca for those wanting to glimpse scenery from Gladiator and Games of Thrones; this world heritage listed, fortified village is a great example of clay architecture and home to a mere six families.  As night descended, Moroccan wine flowed,we joined hands as our strangled verses of Auld Lang Syne floated ethereal like towards the fabled  city.

From the fringe of the Sahara, we were thrown body first into its mouth; where ochre sands swarmed over us, like waves crashing across a shore-line.  After a bumpy four wheel drive ride, we straddled Sydney and Thomas, our camels, for a ride out to the apex of sand dunes - standing 150m in height. This towering Goliath engulfed us in a sense of solitude as our virgin footprints tattooed the sand.  Sand boards materialised and the mighty dune was conquered as the final rays of the sun kissed us good night. After a another superb meal of traditional Berber fare,  a roaring fireplace beckoned, stories were shared, wine consumed, the night stars burn't so brightly that their number and intensity overwhelmed. The true beauty of silence was realised.  The magic of the mighty Sahara remains lovingly etched in our memories.

Our travels take us from the arid desert of the Sahara to the salt spray of Essaouria.  Here restaurateurs haggled over the days catch from fisherman, whose faces were etched with stories from the sea, shoe-shine artist and beggars all hawk for the tourist dollars.  Western music beckoned from cafes which seem to erode ever so slightly, the veil of conservative Islam. 

 To Morocco and Fouad (our fabulous guide), we say a huge Shukran!

 'We think this may be the beginning of a beautiful friendship'

Monsoonal Rain!

Drop by drop the heavens cry,
with the breath of sweet rain.
Leaves rejoice in delicious favour.
Dams; thirst quenched start to fill
and barren lands do flourish.

Gumboots squawk and splash,
as brightly coloured umbrellas dance.
Wipers move erratically,
 clearing the line of vision.
Condensation and mould take grip,
as the monsoon refuses to cease.

 A never ending pelting soaks the earth,
the terra firma becomes fickle.
 Sodden soil loses strength,
 the shift in nature unwelcome.
Trees move and  the ground quakes,
staunchly hoping to keep its place.

As the deluge perseveres,
havoc does reek.
Flooding, landslides
 and crops falter.
An infliction to life and property!

Send the Ark!

In the world kitchen. Pastilla!

Pastilla…

So nice, I had it thrice (well, more than that, but “a lot” doesn’t rhyme with “nice”)

Hi there! Would you like some roasted and chopped almonds, honey and cinnamon with your… Chicken pie?

Wait! Don’t leave! Sure, I know it sounds like something dreamed up by some pregnant woman whose mind is swimming in hormone soup, or perhaps someone who’s taken one too many hits of weed. But if a lamb tagine is the Michael Jackson of Moroccan cuisine, then the Pastilla is the Jackson 5. 

Pulled chicken lovingly coated with spices like cinnamon, cardamom and turmeric, then mixed with orange zest, almonds, honey and some onions for good measure. Wrapped in brick pastry and baked to perfection. More honey. More almonds. More cinnamon. And a dash of powdered sugar. 

Is it dinner? Is it dessert? Who cares, if you can have it for both? 

Thanks to our lovely tour mate Lizahn for her review of a Moroccan favourite!

In the world Kitchen! Morocco!

In Marrakech, we decided to partake in a Moroccan Masterchef experience and cook our own chicken tagine. We met our chef and headed off into the souqs to source ingredients for the feast. First stop was Lenards, where our live chickens were selected and prepared. Not really wanting to think too much into the process, we concentrated on the selection of fresh vegetables and spices on offer.

The prep kitchen was on the terrace of of a local riad. A sunny location where we sat at a long table and chopped and dices to the direction of our expert. Many laughs were had whilst prepping and sipping mint tea as the tagine simmered on the flames.

End result, if we must say so ourselves, was a very delicious Moroccan delight!

• 
  

  Place the chicken in Tajine; squeeze the fresh lemon juice on the chicken. Add preserved lemon (not the skin). Chop

  onions, parsley and coriander nely and add to the chicken. Add garlic, spices and oil and cook for 10 min. Add

  water and cook for another 10 min. Then add olives, the skin of the preserved lemon and chili and cook for 40 min.

  All together cooking time is 1 hour.

  BEST. DAY. EVER

  recipe card

  500 grams chicken

  ¼ fresh lemon

  ¼ preserved lemon

  1 small onion

  Fresh parsley

  Fresh coriander

  2 cloves garlic

  1 tsp pepper

  1 tsp ginger

  ¼ tsp saron powder

  1 pscg saron color

  ¼ tsp salt

  1 tsp cumin (to taste)

  4 tbs olive oil

  1 cup of water

  Chilli (to taste)

  Olives

  Chicken Tajine

  Peel tomato, deseed it. Roast the capsicum on open ame and put it in a plastic bag for 5 min. Take the skin o.

  Chop tomato, capsicum, onion, parsley and coriander. Squeeze the lemon juice, add spices and mix with olive oil.

  1 tomato

  1 capsicum

  ½ an onion

  Fresh parsley

  Fresh coriander

  Cracked pepper

  Cumin

  Salt

  2 tbs olive oil

  ½ fresh lemon

  Moroccan salad

  marrakech

  Chicken dishes

  Ginger

  Saron

  Pepper

  Cumin

  Lamb & beef

  Prunes

  Apricot

  Cinnamon

  Fish

  Paprika

  Pepper

  Cumin

  Saron

  Moroccan spices
• 
  

  Today, Morocco’s famous mint tea – green tea steeped with lots of spearmint – has become symbolic not only of

  Moroccan cuisine, but also of Moroccan hospitality and culture. Many families serve the markedly sweet beverage

  several times a day with or without food, and both drop-in and invited company can expect to be oered tea as

  a welcoming gesture. While the Moroccan tradition of honoring the guest may be rooted in Islamic etiquette,

  Moroccans are renowned for elevating that standard of hospitality to an exceptional level. As such, even new

  acquaintances and unexpected guests will be encouraged to drink glass after glass of tea (to avoid oending the

  host, it’s wise to oblige!), and then pressed to stay on for a full meal.

  Tea is cooked in a stainless steel teapot that can be put directly on top of the stove. Moroccans typically use the

  Chinese gunpowder green tea. About 2 table spoons to a litre of water.

  •

  Put the tea in the pot and pour over about a glass of boiling water. Let it rest for few minutes and pour out the water

  in a glass. Don’t swirl around the water in the pot, just pour it straight into a glass. Leave the clear liquid for later.

  • Add another glass of boiling water to the tea leaves and once again let it rest for few minutes. This time swirl

  around the water in the teapot and pour it out. That will wash the tea leaves.

  • Now that the tea leaves are washed pour boiling water over them (about two thirds of the pot) and add the rst

  glass of tea you set aside for later use. Place the pot on a medium high heat.

  • Once you see rst bubbles forming add the fresh mint and sugar (to taste) to the pot.

  • Let it boil till you see the mint leaves on the top of the pot and tea has become bubbly and foamy.

  • Instead of stirring the tea Moroccans usually mix it by pouring the tea in a glass and then pouring it back in the pot.

  Repeat that four or ve times.

  • Once the tea has been mixed it is ready to be served. Try to pour holding the teapot about an arms length above

  the glass- this way you will get nice foam on top of the tea glass.

  • Sit back and enjoy!

  BEST. DAY. EVER

  Moroccan mint tea

  Chicken- Djaj

  Onion - Basla

  Lemon - Hamed

  Preserved lemon - Msyer

  Tomato - Matisha

  Green pepper - Fela

  Coriander - Kosbor

  Parsley - Moadnous

  Garlic - Toma

  Salad - Chlada

  Tea - Tay

  Mint - Lekama

  Sugar- Sokar

  Olive oil - Ziit

  Olives - Zitoun

  Water- Elma

  Pepper - Lebzar

  Cumin - Kamoun

  Ginger - Skinjber

  Salt - Melha

  Saron - Zaafron

  Cinnamon - Qarfa

  Chilli - Harra

  Paprika - Tahmira

  Food items in Arabic

  tajine cookery

  class

  take this tour!

  Starts daily at 9am

  Duration 4 hrs

  From USD $70