Wanderings through Morocco 1

White walls awash with blue and green, as we traversed the medinas. Mules laiden with toil, share their journey with bright-eyed children returning from school. Social gatherings emerge from the community Hammams and business transactions occur in the alleyways of light.

We zig-zag through alleyways designed by a maze master, pass the oldest university in the world and numerous Mosques, where the call to prayer beckons.  Nougat and almond cookies tempt our taste buds as we observe mosaic jigsaws being assembled, artisians of silver, bronze and textiles at work. With sprigs of mint under our nose and watery eyes, we observed the tannery  come to a pungent life.  Here torsos immersed in vats of colour and urine, churn the hide into leather.  Whispered voices offered Moroccan chocolate (hashish)  as we strolled through souqs and walled cities. Transfixed by the circus that coralled in front of us, we sat in the main square of cities, sipped mint tea and scrunitized as snake chamers, monkey and ostrich handlers tout their business.

The cities of Casablanca, Rabat, Moulay Idriss, Volubilis, Fez, Chefchaouen and Marrakech cough up postcard opportunities ad nauseam.  Hassan ll Mosque stands like a lighthouse framed by the mighty Alantic ocean, whilst Hassan ll tower and Mausoleum stand in a courtyard where Romam columns of varying sizes erupt from the ground and  guards stand to attention in full parade uniform as we view the crypt of King Hassan ll. Mighty walls shroud us in protection and the archaelogical site of Volubilis shows us how far the tentacles of the Roman Empire stretched and the influence they had on the shaping of modern civilisations.

As we explore the magic of Morocco, the reason we travel becomes obvious. A buzz resonates through us, repugnant smells attack and a cacophony of alien sounds surround us. We accept that we will get lost, things will take us out of our comfort zone and events occur that of which we have no control. Experience makes memories. Memories make for a life fulfilled!

A postcard from Casablanca!

As time goes by, we find our senses engulfed with a cacophony of horns, call to prayer and haggling.  Our wanderings take us through the medina, past Mosques, pray mats, fruit stalls and Rick's Cafe, here we catch a glimpse of life in the 'white house' - Casablanca.

A extremely pushy  taxi driver did not judge his prey well, when he met with the alpha female of our duo. Haggling led to doors being opened in a moving taxi and a hike in fares!  However, it also led us to the awe-inspiring 'Mosque Hassan ll'.  This modern wonder stands on its own peninsula from land reclaimed from the mighty Atlantic.  10,000 craftmen blended traditional Moorish architecture with 20th Century innovation to construct this masterpiece over seven years as a tribute to the King of Morocco.

As our first taste of Moroccan life, we tip our hat to you and utter those immortal lines - 'Here's looking at you kid.'

A Postcard from Gilbratar!

It is a outlandish sight, seeing a minature England connected to mainland Spain.  This peculiarity arose as a result of the War of Spanish Succession in 1704.  Archduke Charles III from Austria, believed he should be the rightful heir to the throne of Spain and like a good episode of Games of Thrones, with its skullduggery and strategic alliances, his Anglo-Dutch mates joined together and took Gilbratar. The grand alliance failed in its objective of placing Charles on the throne, but in peace negotiations, Gibraltar was ceded to the United Kingdom in 1713 and here it has stayed as the last Bastille of  colonialism ever since. In fact, in the Brexit referendum in 2016, 96% of the citizens of Gibraltar voted to exit the European Union and if eveything goes to plan they will get their wish in 100 days.

It is the Rock that people come to see, a sentinel that has dominated the skyline for centuries.  Rising 412 metres above the sea, it provides stunninng panoramic views of the port and city skyline. It is also home to Europe's only colony of wild monkeys  - the Barbary Macaques. The award goes to Gibraltar for the most feeble attempt to cash in on the Star War franchise anywhere, 'the Skywalk', is four panels of glass that jut out from the rock, of which you can walk along. One panel, obviously is not a Star Wars fan as it has already cracked from embarrassment.

 The 13th century, intrepid Moors were first to see the strategic value of the Rock and the Moorish castle ruin still dominates the skyline today. The Rock is synonymous with sieges and a series of tunnels were gouged through the limestone in response to the Spanish and French siege that occurred between 1779 and 1783 . The mighty Rock also became a major strategic post for the allied forces during WWII and an addition 52 kilometres of tunnels were gouged. Finally, the Rock is also home to the magnificent St Michael's Cave complex that winds through the internal workings of the Rock.

Gibraltar is certainly steeped in history based upon conquest and strategic intentions.  The question beckons, is it time that it gained its own identity?

In the world kitchen! Irsael!

Jesus fed the masses with 5 loaves of bread and 2 fishes. Or so the story goes. The carb element of this miracle has certainly lasted the centuries.

Most traditional Israeli dishes incorporate bread of some description.  Pita,  kubaneh, challah and laffa are some are the varieties on offer. A lunch time favourite is either: falafel, made from fava beans and chickpeas and fried into delicious ball shapes. These are served with trimmings of hummis, pickled turnips and salad in a pita bread pocket. Or shawarma a middle Eastern orignal version of the doner kabab.

Tahini is the core to many traditional meals in Israel. It can be used as a dressing, sauce or a basis for sweets. Very popular just as a dip with freshly made, hot pita bread. Yummo!

In Nazareth, we went to an Arabric restaurant called Teshreen. Here we ordered from their wood stove menu: haloumi with tomatoes, mushrooms stuffed with garlic, cheese and lemon sauce and whole roasted aubergine with cheese and  pesto. Devine!

Halva and baklava, not traditionally Israeli but definitely  a Middle Eastern favourite.

Buna saghir!     

Holy land 2

The areas known as Israel and the Palestian terrorities have been occupied, conquered and disputed since before the time of Christ. People world wide have an understanding of the significance of the area for religious groups but they have little empathy for the conflicts that occurred and continue to impact on the daily life of individuals. There is silence over the Armenian Genocide that occurred from 1915-17, little is discussed about the civil war that erupted after the United Kingdom abandoned the terrority in 1948 or the 6 day war between Israel and the Arab nations in 1967.  There were closed eyes and covered ears as the West Bank Barrier, aka, the wall of apartheid, racial segregation wall erupted on stolen land in the 2000's to reduce the risk of terrorism, to today, where even our own country, who wishes to be the lap dog of Trump and his 'make America Great' flagellation seeks to recognise Jerusalem as the capital.

We witnessed the disgust of this decision first hand when we were in the lobby of our hotel; we were asked by an elderly woman where we came from? Our reply was Australia.  She responded by spitting at our feet and telling us that she does not like Australians due to their contemplation of Jerusalem as the new capital of Israel. She then turned and casually walked away.  The butterfly effect was in full swing.

With so much conflict and sadness, there also exists a richness in culture and history.  From the religious icons of the Western Wall, the Dome of  the Rock, Mt of Olives, the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Nativity, to the fingers of God caressing the Sea of Galilee, to the Rock where Jesus told Peter to build his Church, all merge into a tapestry of man's interpretation of a personal spiritual journey.

Away from the tensions and religious paraphernalia, lsrael and the Palestine terrorities are awash in natural wonder.  From the Dead Sea, whose level of salinity is so high that buoyancy becomes natural and life guards do not resuscitate but rather provide eye wash to the many tourists and where instagram moments are made as mud smeared bodies pose on the shore-line.  To luna landscapes that carpet vast sections of the nation which unleashes ancient artifacts and ruins at will.  Such as: the Masada Fortress,  Hisham's Palace in Jericho, to the Hospitaller's fortress with its knight's hall and Templar tunnel in the Old City of Akko.

Israel and the Palestine terrorities are a kaleidoscope of religion, history, culture and tension.  It is truely a melting pot of diversity.